Valjevo –recommendation for sightseeing or the pubs of Valjevo

“When you come to any town and one comes to any town very late. When you come very late to any town, and if that town happens to be Valjevo” – Matija Bećković

If that city is accidentally or on purpose Valjevo, are you wondering what to see in Valjevo in three days?

Dragan Milićević wrote wittily and eloquently about local habits, what people here like and cherish, putting emphasis on the pubs in town.

“People here are like that, they like to get together, they like spending time in local pubs, and our hospitality is at such a high level that the saying that fish and visitors stink after three days doesn’t apply in our case.”

We saw this in “Ivkova slava” which was shot precisely in Tešnjar, Valjevo’s old town.

 “How could it possibly be true when in three days you cannot possibly visit the Museum and Muselim’s lodgings, drink coffee in Bukva or Bela kuća (ed. e.g.), have lunch in the old tavern Marko Kraljević (Šofer bar has unfortunately been closed down, ed. e.g.).

Take some photos at Marko’s chair, strain your neck looking at Stevan Filipović, admire the paintings of Valjevo’s best known painter Ljuba Popović in the Modern Gallery, visit Brankovina and recite Desanka’s poem – No, don’t come closer, I want from a far, visit the Nenadović Tower, drink a pint of Valjevo bear at Platani.”

Something for everyone

Dragan adds:

“Take a walk around Pećina, read The Moth by Milovan Glišić and visit Sava Savanović’s Mill on the river Gradac, drink water from the spring, light a candle in Ćelije or Lelić, eat nettle broth at Vidan’s spring.

And roast lamb and barbecue at Bora’s in Rosulje, do some research at Petnica Science Center and get scared of bats in the Petnica Cave, jump into the pool and go for a swim in the lake.

Have trout for dinner at Lovci while peacocks walk around your table, check out the girls from Valjevo while they parade along Kneza Miloša Street.

Leave a half of your salary to musicians from Bair in one of pubs in Tešnjar, stagger over the white marble bridge, catch a cab in front of the Grand Hotel and eat burek at 3 a.m. For breakfast have kacamak or przenice at Šmeker’s.

For dessert eat tufahije in Kuća, breath some fresh air at Divčibare, bow in Lelić, drink one rakija at Gljivar’s, say farewell to your hosts and to remember us buy a kilogram of duvan cvarci at Slaven’s.

And hear the story about this clever man who remembered how to protect this 200-year old product from the Slovenians who stole ajvar, so duvan cvarci are now officially the brand of Valjevo.

And if you manage to do all this in three days, one thing is for sure, you’ll be back for more.

In the meantime you will chat online will men and women from Valjevo preparing to, perhaps, next time stay in Valjevo for good.


This seems like a perfect itinerary to me. What do you think?

“When you come” by Matija Bećković:

Translation: Marija Đurđević

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